Quillan: For the times they are a changin'

Cities that have been around for a long time go through ups and downs, decline and growth. It can be painful but also exhilarating. Quillan was first mentioned in the 10th century and experienced a period of rapid growth in the 12th century when many of the streets that still exist today were built.

The economic interests evolved over time – from logging to iron to shoes and hat-making and finally to formica.

The formica factory was established in 1952 and closed in 2003. The factory employed nearly 200 people in a small town, and its departure had a huge impact. You can still see signs for the hair salons, clothing stores, and bakeries that used to operate but don’t any longer.

There are renewed signs of life in Quillan nowadays – new sidewalks, facelifts on core businesses, and a new community centre. It’s exciting to see, but it has come about as the result of a dramatic shift in the community with English-speaking ex-pats now accounting for 10% of the population.

very recent facelift

The change seems to have been well received. The town invites newcomers to a welcome event. Restaurants greet their regular customers with a smile and remember their dessert order. Newcomers join in some French community activities, such as the walking club, but have also established their own events and set up an English lending library as well as a book stand at the Wednesday market. A fish and chips truck does the rounds of the neighbouring towns, and there are British-style quiz nights every two weeks.

English Library

The French community is active as well. I watched 4 films at the local cinema, went to a couple of plays during an amateur theatre festival, and attended a talk on archaeology. There are concerts every week and summer festivals to attract tourists.

I have been very, very happy in Quillan – friendly people, lots of interesting activities, outdoor patios when the days are sunny, markets twice a week, an excellent organics store, and very cheap bus/train service ($1.50) to neighbouring towns. There are also some lovely walks to nearby villages. Quillan is moving with the times and doing it very gracefully.