Wanderlust and Words

The sun seemed to shine the whole time I was in Aix-en-Provence. That isn’t exactly true, but it’s how it felt. I had a comfortable small apartment in an 18th century family home with a wood-beamed ceiling and a large window looking out over the courtyard garden and the tower of St. Sauveur Cathedral. The old town was just a two-minute walk away and I went in most days to shop at the daily fruit and vegetable and flower markets or to admire the architecture. Hȏtel Caumont has been beautifully restored so I could catch a glimpse of what life was like in Aix a couple of centuries ago. I took a couple of guided walks and learned so much about the Aix's wealth of 17th and 18th century mansions. The town has 130 fountains, another sign of wealth in a hot, dry area.  I walked up to Cézanne’s atelier in the hills overlooking Aix. It had been left untouched after his death and I found it very moving. The house was surrounded by a wild garden full ...

The old part of European cities is always a delightfully tangled maze of narrow streets and alleyways, and there is nothing I like more than simply wandering the streets, admiring the architecture and finding surprises around every corner. That's exactly what I did when I visited Avignon. My first surprise in Avignon was to find such a large city still surrounded by a tall stone wall. I particularly enjoyed the park on top of the Rocher des Doms with its view over the Rhȏne River. I visited the Palais des Papes and shuffled a few dance steps on the Pont d’Avignon, but my happiest moments were spent simply wandering the back streets. Of course, I found time to visit Les Halles, the indoor market, as well.

This is my first time in the interior of Provence and I was delighted to be taken for a drive around some villages near Monteux. Pernes Les Fontaines  Pernes les Fontaines has over 40 ancient fountains as well as lovely old stone houses, ramparts, and gateways. Fontaine de Vaucluse  A spring flows out of the cliffs surrounding the town of Fontaine de Vaucluse . It’s a very pleasant walk between tall cliffs along the river Sorgue to the source. There are traces of the forts that used to guard the area on the clifftops. L’Isle sur la Sorgue  Downstream from Fontaine de Vaucluse is L’Isle sur la Sorgue which has become renowned for its antique markets. There are several small streams running through the town making it a very pleasant spot to sit and enjoy a cold drink on a hot day. See also: Monteux Murals

My current housesitting assignment is in Monteux , France, near Carpentras and Avignon. I was excited to get a housesit in Provence and set out almost immediately to explore the town. It’s not very big, but the residents have established an art trail with 15 different artist and artisan studios. The route is lined with murals. Here are a few of my favorites (please note all the cats!).