Wanderlust and Words

Great Torrington is a small market town in the heart of north Devon. One of the best parts of taking a day trip to another town is the bus ride. Unlike cars that usually take the quickest, straightest route from point A to point B, buses meander through the countryside, stopping in all the small communities. The bus to Torrington follows the Torridge River and the Tarka cycle trail for much of the way, travelling on narrow country roads between tall hedges or banks. At one point, the driver had to carefully position the bus before taking a sharp turn into a low tunnel. I was excited to visit Torrington as their Pannier Market (covered market) was built in 1842 and redeveloped in 1999. I made sure to go on a market day but was severely disappointed! There was only one food vendor selling home baking. Seriously, Saskatoon! You don’t know how lucky you are to have a thriving farmers’ market. I’ve visited several British farmers’ markets this year and they were all so small w...

This is my second time housesitting in Appledore, Devon, and it has again been a restful, productive period full of tranquil, happy moments. I hope that my photographs help to explain what is so special about this little fishing village. I am immensely grateful to Linda and Kevin for sharing this lovely place with me. The river estuary is the heart of Appledore. I love to walk along the quay at all times of day as the water rises and falls with the tides and the sky moves from light to dark. This is “my” street with two of its twisting side lanes and tunnels. It leads downhill to the quay. Irsha was once a separate community and a fierce rival of Appledore. It’s now a quiet, winding road leading to the lifeboat station. I would so love to see this wisteria in bloom. And, last, but not certainly not least – Fenn, a quiet companion, who nonetheless knows what she wants and gently pats my arm when it’s time for a ribbon-chasing game.

Sunshine is a relatively rare commodity in Great Britain, so when the forecast looks promising I head rapidly out the door. I joined the South West Coast Path , which stretches for 630 miles from Minehead to Poole, at Westward Ho! I know – it’s a very unusual name for a town. Located just south of where I’m staying in Appledore, Westward Ho! was named after a novel by Charles Kingsley in the hope that the name would attract visitors to this small seaside resort. Apparently it worked and continues to work today drawing in surfers and families to enjoy the long stretch of beach. The South West Coast Path heads out along the coast with slopes of gorse and vibrant green fields dotted with flocks of sheep on one side and charging waves breaking against the rocks on the other. Small pebble beaches interrupt the cliffs and there are views along the coast to Clovelly and across the open sea to Lundy Island. There is an abandoned house on the outskirts of Westwa...

A jumble of houses lines a steep cobblestone road leading, at the very bottom, to a sheltered harbour. I’m sure you’ve all seen photographs of Clovelly, but it still surprised me to leave the visitor centre, start down a path through green fields and trees, only to see more and more rooftops appearing below me. The village is a major tourist attraction with a huge visitor centre at the top of the hill full of gimmicky knick-knacks. Holiday lets aren’t allowed in the village, but there are shops, a tea room, and bed and breakfasts. I’m glad I visited in winter when there was only a handful of visitors. I particularly enjoyed heading off the main track and exploring the narrow alleys, flights of stone steps, passageways, and quirky private gardens. Donkeys used to be used to carry supplies downalong to the villagers. They’ve been replaced by sleds and now provide donkey rides for kids in the tourist season. Part of the joy of visiting Clovelly ...