Château de Puilaurens


High up on a rugged mountain peak are the ruins of the medieval castle of Puilaurens. Located in a sparsely populated region of southwest France (a 15-minute drive from Quillan), it comes as a surprise to find a fortified castle. And yet, during the 13th century, the castle played an important role in defending France’s border with Aragon (Spain).


Located at 697 metres above the Boulzane valley, a castle may have existed here as early as the 10th century. For a short time, it was a refuge for the local Cathars who were facing religious persecution.


By the middle of the 13th century, the castle had been substantially reinforced by the French monarchy. The southernmost castle in France, it played an important role in defending France against attacks from Aragon.


The castle’s ruins still evoke the spirits of the soldiers who guarded its walls. Looking down from a southern window, you can imagine mounted soldiers or messengers hurrying along the narrow road that winds its way through the valley.


Windows on the north side of the castle provide a spectacular view of the Lapradelle Viaduct, constructed in 1900 to carry the railway line across the valley.


As I made my way cautiously over the stones and up the rough steps, I was amused to note that there are no guides, no signs warning of danger, or roped-off areas. A young girl skipped down the stairs and older children were left free to roam. I can’t imagine this happening in North America where we are so very, very safety-conscious.


If you happen to take the road between Quillan and Perpignan in the dark, be sure to look up. The floodlit walls of the château are an entrancing sight.

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