Mediterranean Perpignan


It’s only a short distance from Quillan in the foothills of the Pyrénées to Perpignan near the Mediterranean coast, but the climate changes dramatically. From forested foothills and tight mountain passes, you pass through villages dedicated entirely to the production of wine, finally arriving in the major urban centre of Perpignan.


Step out the door of the train station and you are greeted by a boulevard of 19th-century bourgeois mansions lined with palm trees. There is bougainvillea blooming by the river in the middle of October.


The city of Perpignan has been in existence since Roman times, but its golden age was 1276-1344 when it was the capital of the Kingdom of Majorca, a kingdom that encompassed parts of both Spain and France.


Perpignan is very close to the Spanish border and many residents consider themselves to be citizens of Catalonia. The Catalan colours were flying on the Castelet when I was there, and all the street signs are in French and Catalan.


The city has close ties with both Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso. The shopping centre next to the TGV railway station is entitled El Centre del Mon or the Centre of the World because Dali, in an ecstatic experience, declared that the train station was the centre of the universe.

The newly-renovated art gallery (Musée des Beaux Arts Hyacinthe Rigaud) was previously a privately-owned mansion and Picasso stayed here on various occasions from 1954 to 1956. The gallery is well worth visiting and I plan to go back as I only had time and energy to take in the Picasso exhibit.


It takes a couple of visits to become familiar with the layout of the old city, which consists of several large squares and a large number of narrow streets and alleyways.


There was a small market in the Place de la République, and I loved the colourful display of tins of tea in the Kusmi store.


I recommend lunch at the Crêperie du Théâtre, especially the salted caramel dessert crêpe! Owned and run by a young couple, they serve local, organic, fair trade dishes for a very reasonable price.



For additional photographs, see Perpignan à Noël.

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