Saturday Outing to Carcassonne


There’s a large market in Carcassonne on Saturdays, filling the central square and trickling out into the side streets. I love going there, but it does require an early start. The region provides subsidized bus service from Quillan to Carcassonne and Perpignan. It only costs a euro (less than $2), but the service is infrequent and anything but direct. I’m up at 6 to feed the cat, eat breakfast, and walk to town to catch the bus at 7:40 am. The bus meanders through all the small communities along the way. It’s slow, but you also see a lot more than if you took the quick route on the highway.


The bus arrives in Carca at 9 am and I head straight to the market. I have lots of time so I wander around looking at everything and taking photographs before deciding what to purchase. There appear to be way more local organic producers this year – not surprising as there’s strong public demand for organic food in France and Europe as a whole.


You can buy raw milk in bulk and there are at least 3 bakers selling organic bread. Some of them also grind the wheat and may even grow it.


I buy bread, some buckwheat crêpes, apricot jam, and pears and pick up a small fresh goat cheese. I can’t resist buying two boules d’or turnips as they are such a pretty colour. They turn out to be very tasty as well.


There are so many flowers for sale – not a practical purchase when I’m on the bus unfortunately.


The sun is up now and I head for the only café with a sunlit terrace for a hot drink and a chance to watch what’s going on around me.

There’s an excellent bookstore in Carca so I have a good browse and end up buying 3 books. I visit a small exhibit entitled Cats and Nudes but can’t say I’m overly impressed. The tourist office has a very handy, free, clean toilet for which I’m extremely grateful. I then visit the local organics store and pick up some things I can’t get in Quillan. Restaurant Le 104 is next door and that’s where I head to have lunch.


The restaurant has a spacious quiet dining room and, unusually for France, always has a vegan option on its 3-course prix fixe menu. The food is always organic and seasonal. It’s simple but healthy – a beetroot and apple appetizer followed by a tofu steak on lentils and chocolate cake.


It’s now time to walk to the train station to catch the bus home. I’m back by 4 pm and looking forward to a quiet evening and crêpes for supper.

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