Marseille - I'll Be Back!

I was reluctant to visit Marseille. I’d read too many news items about corrupt politicians and collapsing buildings. However, it was a convenient stopping-off point on my way to Quillan, and I’m really glad I’ve had a chance to get a taste of Marseille. It’s left me wanting to go back.

stairs leading up to Gare St. Charles

I chose the Alex Hotel for its location directly opposite St. Charles Station as my train arrived just before midnight and I didn’t want to have far to go. I would stay here again. The room was clean, modern, and comfortable and, when I opened the windows, I had tantalizing glimpses of the church on the hill – Notre-Dame de la Garde – as well as the moon shining down on the tiled rooftops.

I really enjoyed spending time walking around the old port and visiting the museum and old fort on the waterfront. The Museum of Mediterranean and European Civilization (MUCEM) is full of interesting exhibits that are well displayed with opportunities to touch some of the exhibits. There are fantastic views from the roof terrace and an above-ground walkway leads you to the old fort.

There was a multi-level herb garden on the top of the fort and around the ramparts – again, with lots of benches so you can enjoy the view (I was lucky as it was sunny and 22 degrees when I was there). Both the museum exhibits and the plant collection were powerful reminders that the countries around the Mediterranean have close ties and inter-connections – the political borders are strictly artificial.

I took a hair-raising bus ride uphill on narrow, twisting streets to Notre-Dame de la Garde. This was the last place in Marseille to be liberated during WWII and you can still see the bullet marks. There’s a lovely painting of a tree of life with dozens of birds in the church and fantastic views over Marseille.

The hilltop church watching over the city below reminded me of the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière in Lyon, which has a similar location and is also well-loved by the city’s residents.

One of the delights of taking the metro (I had easy access to both metro lines from Gare St. Charles) is that you never know what you’ll find when you emerge above ground. Each neighbourhood is completely different and I was blown away by the elaborate sculptures, fountains, and architecture of the Musée des Beaux Arts.

Across the street is the Musée Grobet-Labadié, a furnished 19th century bourgeois home. It's a well-off residential neighbourhood so I had fun exploring some of the shops and bakeries.

The Musée des Beaux Arts had some interesting pieces, especially the sculpture of local 17th-century sculptor, Pierre Puget. The artwork I enjoyed the most, however, was at the Musée Regards de Provence, particularly the paintings of St. Tropez by Henri Person.