A Vibrant Multinational Neighbourhood in Marseille


After visiting the organic farmers' market in Cours Julien, I scurried back on the metro, getting off one stop further on to visit another market. The two neighbourhoods and markets were very close together but had a totally different feel.

Marché des Capucins 
Capucins Market heads downhill from the Noailles metro station and is at the heart of a vibrant, multinational neighbourhood. It’s a public market operating 6 days a week. The vendors are reselling fruit and vegetables they purchased elsewhere, and there is no obligation to sell local or organic food. Apparently, it’s a good place to buy African food and spices.


There were a lot of young men hanging around the market, which is renowned for its contraband cigarette sellers. I caught one of them in action. When his quiet offer of cigarettes was accepted, he hurried over to a covered drain, lifted the lid, fetched a packet of cigarettes, and sold them.


I was quickly tempted to wander down the side streets where an unimaginable assortment of goods is for sale. One of the streets leading away from the market was lined with small stores selling food, both packaged and ready-to-eat.




A little further away, there were stores selling a wide range of baskets and other woven goods.




A few of the streets were lined on both sides with large plants. Who put them there? Who maintains them?




With less than half an hour to explore, I was alternately frustrated and tantalized. I would love to go back and spend more time discovering the neighbourhood.

Markets of Marseille, Part One: Organic Farmers’ Market in the Heart of Marseille

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