Seagulls & Spires: Torquay

I’m sitting at the top of Sunbury Hill in Torquay admiring the gulls as they soar overhead. Across from me rows of large cream stucco homes mount the opposing hillside. I took advantage of a break in the gale-force winds that have been battering the bushes around the house to head downhill for some groceries (after an unsuccessful search for a bakery).

I’ve been in Torquay for a week now and am beginning to feel settled. The first day is always an avalanche of information as the homeowners offer up information about everything from what to feed the animals to how to heat the house. I take copious notes, but a lot of it is commonsense. Of course, I was still hunting for light switches, pots, and pans for a day or two!

I’m looking after a lively one-year-old Shih Tzu who loves to chase his pink pig and hates to be separated from his humans. There is also a 20-year-old Persian cat who is not in great shape but still able to quietly boss me around. She leaves me in no doubt as to when she wants to be fed and she insists on her morning bowl of milk before I’ve even put the kettle on.

It’s a large, comfortable house and I’ve started establishing my routine: morning tea in a small quasi-sunroom, a work station at the kitchen table, and evenings in the living room where I feed my addiction for British television (I don’t watch television at home, only Netflix, so this is a dramatic change).

I also try to make the place my own by unpacking clothes, putting out magazines and books and a few cards, choosing a favorite mug (I don’t rearrange furniture as I’m very aware it’s not my house). Once that’s done, I go on some outings to stock up on a few groceries (a few days’ at a time as I’m carrying everything in my backpack).

I’m delighted to be close to a Waitrose, a higher-quality British supermarket, especially as the walk is mostly flat and downhill on the way back. There is another store that’s slightly closer, but it’s a steep uphill climb home. I also signed up for a temporary library card and picked up a stash of English magazines.

My first two outings were devoted to finding Torre Abbey. Directions and online maps led me astray. Finally, a kind family drove me to it. It’s easy to find if you stay on the seafront but tricky otherwise.

Torquay is built on a collection of small hills with only a narrow strip of flat land along the seafront. It’s part of Torbay, 3 small communities that face onto a very large bay off the English Channel in South Devon. I can follow the pedestrianized high street down to the seafront. I plan to explore some of the other neighbourhoods, such as Babbacombe where there is a nice walk along the seafront and various tea shops serving cream teas and all-day breakfasts.