Wanderlust and Words

This is my second time housesitting in Appledore, Devon, and it has again been a restful, productive period full of tranquil, happy moments. I hope that my photographs help to explain what is so special about this little fishing village. I am immensely grateful to Linda and Kevin for sharing this lovely place with me. The river estuary is the heart of Appledore. I love to walk along the quay at all times of day as the water rises and falls with the tides and the sky moves from light to dark. This is “my” street with two of its twisting side lanes and tunnels. It leads downhill to the quay. Irsha was once a separate community and a fierce rival of Appledore. It’s now a quiet, winding road leading to the lifeboat station. I would so love to see this wisteria in bloom. And, last, but not certainly not least – Fenn, a quiet companion, who nonetheless knows what she wants and gently pats my arm when it’s time for a ribbon-chasing game.

Sunshine is a relatively rare commodity in Great Britain, so when the forecast looks promising I head rapidly out the door. I joined the South West Coast Path , which stretches for 630 miles from Minehead to Poole, at Westward Ho! I know – it’s a very unusual name for a town. Located just south of where I’m staying in Appledore, Westward Ho! was named after a novel by Charles Kingsley in the hope that the name would attract visitors to this small seaside resort. Apparently it worked and continues to work today drawing in surfers and families to enjoy the long stretch of beach. The South West Coast Path heads out along the coast with slopes of gorse and vibrant green fields dotted with flocks of sheep on one side and charging waves breaking against the rocks on the other. Small pebble beaches interrupt the cliffs and there are views along the coast to Clovelly and across the open sea to Lundy Island. There is an abandoned house on the outskirts of Westwa...

Saskatoon Spruce Cheese  I’m thrilled to learn about a new cheesemaker in Saskatoon and looking forward to trying his raw milk Caerphilly-style cheese that has been aged on spruce boards for at least 60 days. Saskatoon Spruce cheese is available at the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market, Bulk Cheese Warehouse, and The Cure. Nosh Is Closing  I was so disappointed to learn that Nosh Eatery & Tap is closing at the end of January. It’s been my family’s go-to place for birthday celebrations and other special occasions. It was well-made, beautifully presented food that just happened to be vegetarian/vegan (see photos above and below). And we could choose from the entire menu rather than a handful of specially designated items. New Owners for Calories  Calories restaurant has new owners! After 23 years, Rémi Cousyn has sold the restaurant to Taszia and Karan Thakur. It’s good to know that they plan to continue to support seasonal food and local suppliers. Transitio...

A jumble of houses lines a steep cobblestone road leading, at the very bottom, to a sheltered harbour. I’m sure you’ve all seen photographs of Clovelly, but it still surprised me to leave the visitor centre, start down a path through green fields and trees, only to see more and more rooftops appearing below me. The village is a major tourist attraction with a huge visitor centre at the top of the hill full of gimmicky knick-knacks. Holiday lets aren’t allowed in the village, but there are shops, a tea room, and bed and breakfasts. I’m glad I visited in winter when there was only a handful of visitors. I particularly enjoyed heading off the main track and exploring the narrow alleys, flights of stone steps, passageways, and quirky private gardens. Donkeys used to be used to carry supplies downalong to the villagers. They’ve been replaced by sleds and now provide donkey rides for kids in the tourist season. Part of the joy of visiting Clovelly ...

Bow Barley Showcase, Jan. 26  Local craft brewers have been collaborating with crop scientists and farmers to grow a barley that meets all their needs. The brewers will be presenting their Bow Barley beers at a showcase on Jan. 26 at Winston’s English Pub . Edible & Medicinal Plants of the Prairies, July 19-21  Edible Landscapes Permaculture Designs & Consulting in Regina is offering an 18-hour course from July 19-21 in sourcing and growing local edible and medicinal plants . Make Your Own Cream Cheese You can make your own cream cheese with a Cultures for Health starter kit available at Dad’s Organic Market. My brother tried it out and said it isn’t too much work, tastes good, and spreads easily. You can choose whether you want a low- or high-fat version and whether or not you want to add flavourings. Making a Difference  Former City Councillor Tiffany Paulsen showed her kids how individuals could make a difference by buying groceries for people w...

I’ve been heading east for the last couple of weeks. From Torquay on the south Channel coast, I moved to Lapworth and Birmingham in Britain’s industrial heartland. I then headed further east to Ipswich on the southeast coast (leaving tomorrow to head all the way back west to Appledore in North Devon). the former post office Ipswich is the oldest town in England dating back to Anglo-Saxon days when it was called Gippeswic. It’s a modern city nowadays with a thriving pedestrian town centre, but there are still some lovely old buildings. The Ancient House dating from the 15th century has some extremely detailed pargeting (ornamental plastering). A sculpture commemorating Carl Giles, the cartoonist, adds a comic touch to the town centre. There are also some modern buildings, including one designed by Norman Foster in 1974, which resembles a grand piano with a garden on top. With a river emptying into the North Sea, Ipswich was an important shipping port fo...

I took a 24-minute train ride to the seaside today (the British complain about their train service, but, oh, how I envy them!). I am currently staying in Ipswich, which is very near the east coast but not on it, so I decided to spend a few hours visiting Felixstowe . Felixstowe was a popular tourist destination in the late 19th century as Victorians travelled here to partake in the healing thermal waters. There is some lovely Victorian architecture to remind us of the town’s former grandeur, although the train station has been turned into a mall and reduced to one short platform. The architecture also indicates the nordic influence. It's easy for North Americans to forget the importance of North Sea Baltic trading. The seafront gardens were initially developed in the early 1900s and it’s easy to picture Victorian ladies and gentlemen strolling through the gardens, stopping to greet their acquaintances, or take in the view. There is a long promenade a...