Bideford, North Devon

A few miles upriver from Appledore is the market town of Bideford. The town was a pleasant surprise and I didn’t have long enough to discover all its treasures.

The Torridge River is still tidal in Bideford and the quays are lined with boats both old and new. In the 16th century, Bideford was Britain’s third largest port and there are still signs of its thriving past.

The impressive bridge linking Bideford with East the Water (i.e. on the other side of the river) was built in 1535.

There are plenty of independent stores in the streets behind the quay selling baked goods, fruit and vegetables, and books.

Bideford’s market hall was built in 1884 and is referred to as the Panier Market as the farmers used to bring their produce to market in large wicker baskets. It’s a very pretty building, but it seems to sell primarily crafts rather than food.

The Burton at Bideford Art Gallery & Museum was an absolute delight, and I could have spent much longer there. They had an exhibit of Carry Akroyd’s work illustrating the poetry of John Clare which was fabulous and I left with two books of Clare’s poetry as well as a calendar and various cards with Carry Akroyd’s woodcuts and paintings. The works both celebrate nature and mourn its demise.

The gift shop has a large selection of work by local artists, and the café is run by a French couple with a menu ranging from cakes to crèpes.